Friday, December 28, 2007

Day 36: Rio Dulce, Guatemala

We are taking a liking to this place and are enjoying the lifestyle and lack of attention people here pay to clock and this thing we have invented called time.

After breakfast, and talking with John, we got a ride from this character to his house and got to see an ex-pats pace of residence, Waterfront with 80 feet of dock space just perfect for his sailboat.

John is like many older sailer men here, attracted initially by Rio Dulce's amazing harbor, the best in the western hemisphere. The have the ability, by being paid very good international wages, to take full advantage of both the real estate and the young women here. John has a "girlfriend" of 23 years of age, himself being well over 50 years. He justified their "relationship" as her having a better life, and him enjoying her company. Both Colin and I talked it over and think that he is just taking advantage of this Guatemalan situation and trying to surpress his social inability to be in his home country, finding a woman where he can have a mutual loving relationship with. And he is not the only salty dog to have this situation, it is most people at Bruno's.

We jump on our bikes without gear and ride 45 minutes through the main drag of town on paved roads through curvy banana plantation surrounding roads over a number of bridges to a potholed dirt road. We take this road through little villages and onto a little area where we park our our bikes and pay the Q10 per person to walk five minutes to the agua caliente, the hot waterfalls.

This place is phenomenally relaxing. It is conveniently located at the juncture of a hot water fall and a cold steam so you can mix the two water temperatures to find the exact relaxing temp for you.
When we got back to Bruno's we herd that there was a great BBQ over at another backpackers only accessible by boat. We packed up some stuff for the night and headed over to spend the night at this secluded spot.

It is dark by the time we leave the Bruno's dock in the launcha, the moon is just about bursting at its seams it was so full. We make our way across the harbor to a little swamp ravine.

Motoring slowly up it we are just amazed at the of this place. We arrive almost at the end of this little river to a thatched building bustling with people, red umbrellas over candle lit tables, truly magical.

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